The awning is a Godsend to put the airer in for wet clothes. Rosie is our sanctuary after a wet and blustery 10k walk. We stopped for lunch at Bays View Cafe, a community hall run by volunteers with homemade soup and cakes and a lovely welcome. Dubber forgot to pack his waterproof trousers so he got wet but his new Harris Tweed cap kept his head warm and dry.
Having had our walk we stayed in the van and so nothing much to report, so I thought we could consider two burner cooking. Rosie has 2 burners on top plus a grill, which until today we hadn’t used as we have a plug-in toaster. We have a saucepan and two frying pans of different sizes. We are going to put in the Le Crueset casserole pot next time. So far as well as the cooked breakfast which included Lorne Sausage this morning we have had:
– tuna fish and pineapple on rice
– chicken fajitas
– vegetable pasanda
– vegetable pesto pasta and homemade grilled garlic bread
Nice and healthy and good on Weight Watchers. Balances the coffee and cake eaten each day and the wine of an evening! We had great gingerbread today!
Day 9 and hurray the wind has dropped. The sun is shining. We can take off our coats and jumpers, it’s t-shirt weather….just! By the time we leave Stornoway and head for Callinish we need jumpers back on but it’s pleasant.
We take walk number 4 from our little book to the iconic Callanish Standing Stones. Amazing to think they have been there nearly 5000 years. How they got there and what the significance is, isn’t known, but the site is certainly worth a visit.
We travel on to find somewhere to stop for lunch. It’s so good putting the kettle on. Whilst we sit there Mrs Duck waddles past with her ten ducklings. Good job I counted them as ten minutes later she waddles back with five missing and she’s looking all over for them quacking away. The men come over to see if they can help and waddle off into the grass.
However we have realised there is a cattle grid and yes you’ve guessed it five little ducklings are swimming around under the cattle grid trying to get out. Dubber tries to get hold of them but they swim off in the other direction. Another motor home had pulled up and the owner came running over with a soup ladle. Dubber scooped and GJ handed them back to mum. All was well with the world again although the men were still wandering looking for them in the long grass!
Onwards then to Tarbet and the Harris Tweed Store. New cap for Dubber. New purse for me.
Now to find the campsite at Likisto. We’ll hold on as the road is narrow and winding. Rosie is really working hard. The campsite is really quirky, remote, lovely views over the loch, a Blackhouse community room, lots of Paths and places to sit if it’s warm enough…..and a few midges. Spray time!
We settle in, have our one pot curry and watch the rain. Scrabble again methinks, currently 4-0, shortly to be 5-0 to me!
My new name for Billypops – Dubber. Although apparently officially only for those driving bays.
Day 7 we leave Liniclate for North Uist. Between some islands are causeways narrow mounds of rock with two lane roads over them, where we share the road with otters crossing, so the signs say.
In North Uist we visit Taigh Chearsabhaigh an art gallery, cafe and museum restored from an old salt house in the herring industry. You can do a module in fine art there. Inspiring. The volunteers do like to stand and chat and we now know her life story!
We thought we had seen the best beaches but travelling into Berneray we found a cove which was beautiful.
We arrived at our new campsite Moorcroft. Now as you know I don’t do camping and I’m fussy about toilets but so far this really meets my standards. They even have a community kitchen built in an old croft; and the view was spectacular. The only problem was the ground tilted so we could have ended up with our heads higher than our feet in bed, but luckily Rosie’s nose was down and we didn’t really notice it in bed.
We have identified that we are sharing these islands with two other sorts of campers; motor homes and caravans driven by silver seventies and cyclists. In the morning I needed the loo and had to walk past the Lycra wearing cyclists in their tents, all lined up like moths in cocoons and a cacophony of snores amongst the singing of the birds. They all blamed each other when I spoke to them later.
Day 8 is Dubber’s birthday. He’d already sang ‘When I’m 64’ even before we’d got out of bed. Themed birthday of course (I expect more campervan cards when we get home) and the Swiss Army knife with 35 implements for all eventuality was much appreciated. ‘They are very sharp’ he says. Maybe should have bought a First Aid kit too as Dubber is accident prone!
Whilst packing up I found our first Midge dead on top of one of our boxes. Otherwise none sighted yet even though I have my Avon Skin So Soft Spray ready (recommended by everyone as the best deterrent and eating rye bread works apparently) and my Neals Yard Voto Diffuser with eucalyptus oil for the van.
We took the next ferry ride to Harris. I thought we had left the beautiful beaches behind us but OMG, I was in awe of what we saw in West Harris. It’s breathtaking. What do you think?
From here we drive north to Lewis and Stornoway our northernmost point on this trip. The landscape changes to dark foreboding mountains. Rosie did so well climbing up into the mountains, racing back down again without any problems. I did tell Dubber she likes a slower pace so that we could actually enjoy the scenery.
We are at a busy site and the car next to us had what we thought was a roof box but we couldn’t see a tent or anything. After our meal celebrating Dubber’s birthday as we walked back I won the bet that the top box was actually a tent. We then sat giggling as we watched them set it up, bring out their collapsible ladder and climb in. We were messaging friends with pictures and were being egged on to remove said ladder but we are more grown up than that…..but the thought did cross our minds.